Page 1 of 2
Tony Perrotta make his debut with an ADF Fitter build!
After two house moves within 6 months, I was slowly getting back into modelling.
I had begun to construct an IDF Fitter. Work had progressed on building an interior to the point shown below...
Also, because of the house moves, I had to rebuild my modelling bench...as you can see I'm a bit of a neat freak!
There was slow progress on this for a while. Mainly due to having no spare time and also waiting for a paint shipment. I had managed to add some wiring and details to the engine compartment though. I also built the shelves and radio/electrical power units and wired them up. The resin crane base I'm going to be using is from Verlinden, and I'm going to plumb the crane hydraulic lines on the plastic card shown as they run from the crane forward to the controls near the driver (had to figure out how to build the controls). The kit part shown below with the pencil for scale leaves a lot to be desired! I can install the whole wall this way and not have to try to plumb the inside of the kit wall.
There are a lot of very good interior reference pictures on the net, which I took full advantage of.
One set I did use was the Verlinden update set with its limited PE for this build. I don't know which kit specifically this set was designed for but I don't think it's this one!
The controls will be mounted on the ceiling just behind and left of the drivers position, hanging down at an angle as my ref's show. I have worked on the roof doors and hatches and other kit parts on the off during my adventures, put the road wheels and sprockets together, a part of armour building I truly hate!
At this point I found the build was becoming tedious and time consuming! The Verlinden update set I was using was of an older issue, the castings are clean but out of square somewhat and there are many small bits involved. The PE that comes with it is the thick older style brass that has to be annealed before bending, just a general pain in the neck to work with it, but has some great PE brackets and such. I am glad at this point however that I didn't get the Eduard PE also, it would have turned a project as it is into a real project !
Some of the details I have added might not be exactly correct but its detail and no one can really prove it wrong, little do-dads and bits of hardware here and there from the spares box, especially in the interior add life to the model.
There is a cable and pulley system for the rear ramp, had to fabricate one of those too.
The Verlinden resin parts took ages to make square and clean up. The crane was a real project - 4 hours non-stop work and fiddling! Some parts were extremely fragile and I was missing a few and using kit parts and PE bits to make my own. It's worth the work I think, the kit crane does not compare. I could see I was going to have some hatch fit problems especially the upper engine hatch as some parts were bowed. I just needed to clamp it and Tenax it, and hope it would sit level and square when I was done. I used punch and die discs to cover the undersized pins in the crane. At this point I may have ended up removing the front most crane cable pulley assembly for the third time, as the resin pulley didn't have the cable groove all the way around it. I thought I had the good side out, but it's too narrow to file a groove which I tried.
I had to remove the assembly from the tip of the crane and scratch build it again, this time making a wheel from discs, maybe using PE for the pulley bracket instead of resin or plastic. I made added the cable pulley (PE and plastic) bottom left of the opening for the rear ramp. The PE set from Verlinden is pretty extensive but as I said hard to work with without being annealed to make it softer. This was far from going smooth, but not terrible either just the crane was a major headache
I hate dealing with wheels of any kind so did little work on these! I really hadn't decided how many and which hatches will be left open either at this point.